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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2004 4:12 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2003 5:40 pm
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Location: Rockwall, Texas
Hello!

Without boring everyone with the details, I have decided after 3 seasons to get rid of my Buffalograss lawn and replace with Bermuda.

What is the best way to do this, and which Bermuda type should I use?

Thanks for any suggestions.

Regards,
Brad in Rockwall


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2004 10:17 pm 
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Hi Brad. Welcome to the Dirt Doctor lawns forum. I'm afraid I can't help you with the "best" bermuda. That seems to vary a little for each area and according to what you want to use the turf for. I can help you grow it and ease in to replace the buffalo, though.

1. Figure out which bermuda you want (see above).

2. Whether you get sod or use seed (for common bermuda only), you'll need to water it every day for a couple weeks to get it established. Seed can be wet for several days in a row and then allowed to dry out a little. Wet means you water it several times a day. Seed for bermuda won't go out until May, so don't get in a hurry. Earlier than that and you're not hot enough for it to germinate. Sod can just be watered once a day for 2 weeks and then start to back off. When you are fully backed off, you should only be watering once a week at the most. The biggest problems with turf are folks who water every day for 10 minutes. The best turf comes from watering deeply and infrequently. Deeply means for at least an hour at a time. If you're on a well (free water), water for half a day each time. Watering right is THE KEY to great turf.

3. Mowing: Mulch/mow with a sharp mower. If you can find a good reel mower, you will be much happier than mowing with a rotary. Whether you sod or seed, don't mow for at least two weeks. The reason for this is to let the roots get a foothold so they don't pull the grass plants out in the early days. If you can wait for the grass to get 3-4 inches tall, that should put your roots down equally deep. BUT THEN, start to mow it down shorter and shorter every week. Bermuda is one of about three grasses that perform best when kept below one inch tall. The best way to get there is to mow twice a week and lower the blade one notch every time. That should take you several weeks to get down to 1 inch or lower. This will seem like the exact wrong thing to do because every week you will expose "stubble" and sharp pointy grass. But if you can trust me, once you get down low enough, the bermuda will take on a "prostrate" growth habit - it will start to spread out horizontally. This is what you want. That horizontal growth will become very soft and dense covering every inch of the soil. This stuff is great on bare feet once you get it.

4. Fertilize bermuda frequently. I'd say at least every 90 days with organic fertilizer. If you use sod, on the day you lay the sod down, apply 10-20 pounds of corn meal per 1,000 square feet to control fungus. Then every 60 to 90 days, apply another 10 pounds/1,000. Get the corn meal at a feed store in 50-pound bags for about $6.50. Or you can use alfalfa meal or pellets. Water the pellets after you apply to keep them from flying away with the birds.

Notice I didn't really say anything about getting rid of the buffalo. If you sod, the sod can go right on top of the buff or you could scrape it off first. If you seed, scalp the buff as low as you can to expose the seed to the sun. After that, just following the 1-4 above and the buff will go away on its own. It is a very fragile grass in our neighborhood. Regular low mowing should take it out.

Bermuda needs a little more care than most folks think if you want it to really be nice. Twice a week mowing and every other month fertilizing adds to the load. Other grasses, St Augustine, for example, can be left to grow tall and mowed only every week or two. And it can go longer between fertilizing. It is a slightly yellower grass in color so that's a consideration.

Does this help?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2004 3:23 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2003 5:40 pm
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Location: Rockwall, Texas
David, thank you so much for your wonderful tips. Many of them I was unaware of, and I thank you for your time.

Regards,
Brad in Rockwall


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2004 4:27 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 29, 2004 9:46 pm
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Location: florida
is buffalograss harder to maintain than bermuda?

with the loss of diazinon and dursban,,,,,how will you maintain the bermuda from mole crickets?

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2004 7:46 am 
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Scott Fl wrote:
is buffalograss harder to maintain than bermuda?

Not if buffalo is adapted to the local conditions.

with the loss of diazinon and dursban,,,,,how will you maintain the bermuda from mole crickets?


Kick the synthetic chemical habit and apply Steinernema scapterisci beneficial nematodes. See e.g.,

http://www.dirtdoctor.com/dallasnews.php?id=24
and, from your own home state,
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/IN413

It appears that you are new to organics, so welcome to the Natural World. You may find the answers to many of your questions by browsing/searching the DirtDoctor.com site, which is linked at the top of this page.

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In theory, theory and practice are the same; in practice, they aren't -- lament of the synthetic lifestyle.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2004 1:11 pm 
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Location: florida
thats cool stuff enzyme!

do these nematodes adversly affect plants?

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2004 7:34 pm 
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The beneficial nematodes do not effect plants adversely. They are not of the same genus and/or species as the plant-attacking nematodes, such as the root-knot nematodes. For the benefit of others who are unfamiliar with beneficial nematodes, they are added to and applied in water, such as with a watering can, in dim light or at least not in direct sunlight, and they should be watered in after application. They're fairly tough, but ultraviolet light and dessication can kill them; they must be able to get into the soil alive to function. They must be alive to be effective, so it's important to buy them from a reputable source. They are large enough to be seen under a strong magnifying glass or weak microscope, so it's a good idea to inspect them for viability if it's possible and practical. You can search this forum or the Web in general to find more comprehensive discussions about their use and effect.

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In theory, theory and practice are the same; in practice, they aren't -- lament of the synthetic lifestyle.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2004 12:19 am 
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More on beneficial nematodes.

They work by killing the host with a disease. They carry the disease bacterium on their little nematode faces. Turns out that bacterium is their food supply and they are just sloppy eaters, but to the host insect, that bacterium is a deadly disease. The nematode enters the host's body through any orifice large enough to enter through. The disease is deposited upon entry. The nematode lays eggs and leaves for the next victim. The eggs hatch and by then, the bacterium has killed the host and pretty much run rampant leaving plenty of food for the new hatchlings. Then the babies take their dirty faces out into the world and search for more hosts.

It is best to apply the nematodes before you need them so they can multiply for you. Don't expect immediate results.

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