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 Post subject: gardening
PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2003 4:30 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 14, 2003 4:21 pm
Posts: 1
Location: ardmore
I want to expand the size of my garden. This will involve killing out bermuda grass. What is the best way to remove the bermuda grass without using Roundup ?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2003 5:37 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2003 10:51 pm
Posts: 747
Location: Garland, Texas
IMO, the best way to remove Bermuda grass is either with a sod cutter or a shovel, cutting at least 1" below the surface. More important than removing the above soil level vegetation is the removal of the "roots and runners" which are below the surface.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2003 6:26 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 20, 2003 4:33 pm
Posts: 526
Location: parker county, texas
Digging by hand to get every little root and runner, then place a mechanical barrier 10 inches below the soil's surface to prevent re-invasion. Even Round-up won't do any good long term. Bermuda's a tough one. I have a little hand tool that is like a mini-hoe with a handle about 15 inches long. It works great.


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 Post subject: bermuda grass
PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2003 1:18 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 31, 2003 4:32 pm
Posts: 32
Location: Ellis County (Ovilla/Red Oak)
I don't know what type bermuda you have, but I've been battling the coastal stuff for years & I don't think you can dig deep enough to get out all the little pieces. It grows to China! Last summer, I used 20% vinegar, full strength, on 2 borders along a walkway. It took 2 applications in 2 days, & then I could turn the earth with a garden fork & take out the now dead or dying roots. That was in August, & I've just now started seeing
bermuda0 pioneers moving in from the lawn, & they're easy to pull out.
Be sure to use hand & eye protection, & do not get this stuff on desireable plants. It is strong.
From what I've heard on the Natural Way & from my own observations, the acidity seems to become neutralized very quickly. Good luck!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2003 1:47 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 19, 2003 12:12 pm
Posts: 110
Location: Garland
I have used 4-5 sheet layers of standard newsprint paper with3-4 inches of grass clippings on top of that. I have a no till garden (lasagna bed) and this has worked very well. I also added 4 yards of topsoil on top of this to promote seed germination (the lasagna bed allows to much oxygen for proper germination)....The combo is about7-8 inches thick


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 Post subject: Lasagna bed
PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2003 10:18 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2003 9:42 am
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Location: ,
What is a lasagna bed?
jmeier wrote:
I have used 4-5 sheet layers of standard newsprint paper with3-4 inches of grass clippings on top of that. I have a no till garden (lasagna bed) and this has worked very well. I also added 4 yards of topsoil on top of this to promote seed germination (the lasagna bed allows to much oxygen for proper germination)....The combo is about7-8 inches thick
:shock:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2003 1:46 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 19, 2003 12:12 pm
Posts: 110
Location: Garland
a lasagna bed is an extension of the Ruth Stout "No Work" Gardening method. essentially it is a sheet composting process. The bottom layer is always the newspaper layer, as a mulch to prevent the grass from growing up through the bed. on top of this essentially, you layer the same stuff you would in a traditional compost pile, except it doesn't get hot and burn the roots because the bulk is not there to promote the heat.

Alternate layers of newspaper, grass clippings and leaves (hay and straw also work well) mixed with cornmeal and dry molasses. Just keep adding a layer or two each year. this results in a very loose, rich soil with earthworms everywhere you put your hand in. you never have to till to break it up, therefore the "no work" title from the Ruth Stout days. It takes a little longer for the decomposition to take place, but if you start in the fall and build your bed properly, cover it with some black poly until for several months, it will speed things up. I added a pertty good layer or two of topsoil as a nod to conventionaly wisdom, but it is not necessary, and comewhat back breaking :?

I went to this method, bc I had very invasive bermuda grass, by the time I reached the middle of the season, I had no produce and it looked like I just dug a hole in my lawn and planted my tomatoes there... This is the second season I have been doing this and my yield has increased 50 fold from the "tomatoes in the lawn" days.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2003 11:11 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:10 am
Posts: 52
Location: Salado
We have had this problem too. Bermuda requires constant maintenece! We found in the past that the only solution is to remove the sod and maintain with layers of carboard and newspaper overlain with mulch. If you don't remove the sod first, the bermuda grows through in a few months and is stronger than ever with the nutrition from the mulch! EVEN STILL the bermuda will grow in eventually :x . We tried edging which works for a while, but the bermuda will eventually grow over and sometimes even under. Now, we are simply trying to remove it. It is not worth maintaining it if you want both a lawn and a vegetable garden/flower gardens. We are planning to change our lawn to buffalo grass. I hope this will be an improvement!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2003 7:54 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2003 3:45 pm
Posts: 2884
Location: San Antonio,TEXAS
Just yesterday I drove past an old friend's house who pulled out her St Augustine and installed buffalo grass several years ago. It is now a full bermuda lawn. Buffalo cannot stand up to any weeds, and especially not bermuda.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2003 12:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:10 am
Posts: 52
Location: Salado
Well then, Buffalo grass is perfect! Something that won't compete with my "weeds" i.e. native plantings, roses, vegetables and herbs!


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