Dallas Morning News – February 23, 2017
Q. I need help desperately and quickly! We live big 6 acre lot which used to be heavily wooded and our home is at the back of it. A few years ago we lost about 25 huge trees to oak wilt. I’m still grieving over them. Now, something horrible is happening to the rest of the trees. M. M. Hudson Oaks, TX
A. You should apply the Sick Tree Treatment to the trees that are left.
Q. I’m looking to clean out a sprayer that had Roundup in it. E. B. Millington, TN
A. Buy the finest textured (talc consistency) activated charcoal or humate you can find and put about 2 ounces of the powder per gallon of water into the sprayer. Slosh the mix around then let it sit for a few hours, then spray the contents with and without the nozzle attached in some area of your property where no food crops are growing. Add an ounce of orange oil per gallon for even better results.
Q. I noticed that you don’t have a library listing of juniper for a ground cover. T. B. Dallas, TX
A. Good point. How’s this for an addition. I’ll have to get some photos. Do you happen to have any?
Q. I planted some potatoes and put straw over. Saw this on youtube and thought I’d try. Is this “strawgrass”? Should I pull it up or let it go. Will it damage my bed in the long run? C. N. Dallas, TX
A. Strawgrass is the wheat growing again from the seeds in the straw. It will function as a cover crop but might be a little messy. Shouldn’t hurt the potatoes and will die out when it gets hot. Don’t let it grow taller than the potatoes or it will be competitive.
Q. Howard I attended your lecture at the Mother Earth fair last year in seven springs pa. Excellent presentation. What book of yours discusses pest and insect control. That was the main thrust of your presentation. D. D. Youngstown, OH
A. The
is what you looking for. It is not specific just to Texas. Also, the Natural-Organic Gardening and Landscaping Course contains two chapters on insect control. The entire course contains helpful information and advice and the chapters specific to insect control will be helpful. Chapter 7: Insect Control – Part 1 – Identifying Beneficials and Pests Chapter 8: Insect Control – Part 2 – Specific Control Techniques
Here is more information about the course.
Q. I have oleander plants which were here when I bought the property in 2004. They have been habitually dying back in winter so I cut them back to about 12 inch high and they grow back in 2-3 years. This cycle repeats itself every few years and they have had beautiful blossoms only about 2 or 3 times in the last 13 years. Enough already; I want to get rid of them! What precautions to do you recommend when I cut them back, e.g. gloves, etc? I have burned the stalks before with the wind to my back. Any danger here? What do you recommend to replace them? I am inclined to a low growing shrubs like Dwarf Nandina or Dwarf Burford Holly?
A. Oleanders contain a toxin called cardenolide glycosides. The toxin is mostly contained in the sap which is clear to slightly milky and sticky. When ingested this toxin can cause harm – and possibly death. The extremely bitter and nauseating taste of the sap (much like a rotten lemon) usually causes reflex in the stomach that rejects and expels the toxin. Although not impossible, a person or animal would have to have a strong stomach or no sense of taste for a dose of the toxin to be fatal. When working with oleander, wear gloves and then wash hands and arms thoroughly when finished. Yes, the smoke from burning oleander is hazardous. Steer clear of the fumes and never use the branches as firewood. Dwarf burford holly, dwarf Chinese holly, and dwarf yaupon holly would all be better choices than dwarf nandina. Dwarf abelia would also be worth considering.